This article was recommended by Jason Estes, thanks!
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If at any point in your restoration or buildup, you're interested in upgrading your wheels to something more than stock, you'll have to consider several factors in keeping the wheels under the fenders and from rubbing during a turn. To quote the Bentley Manual when it pertains to the front axle, "A change in any single element in the geometry necessarily leads to change in the whole system." This holds true to most anything you do to the front end, and by narrowing the beam to accommodate larger wheels and wider tires, you've altered the original intent of the design. Like with anything, there's a good way to do this and there's a bad way. The good way is the hard way, cut the beam in the middle and weld it back together. The best solution is to drop your beam off at Ron Lummus Racing in Anaheim, Calif., to have it narrowed. A word of warning: Because of the lackluster production standards on currently produced beams from other countries, Lummus only works on German beams and won't have anything to do with those from Brazil or Mexico. "The aftermarket beams are almost always crooked--because of the stamps they use and the way they are made--and if we cut a non-German beam and weld it back together, it's going to be even more crooked." On the extreme end, it is possible to take up to four inches out of a ball-joint front beam without extensive work on the body so the shock towers will clear. On the converse, you can only narrow a king and link beam approximately two inches before the towers are flat on the fender wells. However, determining how much you'll want to narrow your beam depends on what kind of set up you're after. By providing your goals to Ron Lummus, your beam can be narrowed as much (or as little) as necessary. As well, another feature with the Lummus system are the lowering adjusters that allow an adjustment to the torsion leaves. This small adjustment is exaggerated by the time the angle is transferred to the spindles, allowing for a pre-determined selection of stances. Depending on the angle and position of the adjusters, the front end can be lowered a little or a lot. We followed Ron and his crew around his shop one afternoon while he took us through the proper process they use to narrow a beam. This example is narrowed by four inches; however, the process is the same regardless of the amount narrowed. This process can be done at home, but we don't really recommend it. |
| Ron Lummus Racing Anaheim CA www.ronlummusracing.com |
Read more: http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0407vwt_beam_narrowing/viewall.html...
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Comment by Jason Estes on March 7, 2013 at 12:26pm Yes, you would move the steering mounts 2 inches. What I did was weld the beam back together without any of the mounts attached. Then I bolted it to the frame head, centered it and welded the main mounts back on. Once that was done, I set the body back on the pan, mounted the steering box on the beam and ran the column through the firewall. That allowed me to mark how the box sits on the beam. The I cut the tie rods and mounted them. Finally I mounted the wheels and figured out where the stop block and dampener mount should go. After it was all mocked up, I took it all back apart and welded everything up tight. I have lots of pictures on my blog that shows the process.
Comment by vincent on February 6, 2013 at 9:12pm so do you move the steering mounts over 2 inches on a 4 inch narrowed beam? how do you know what angle to set your adjuster?
Patina Garage replied to Jeremy Noble's discussion My speedometer sounds like a security alarm!
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